Evaluation of a source-function wavemaker for generating random directionally spread waves in the sea-swell band

TitleEvaluation of a source-function wavemaker for generating random directionally spread waves in the sea-swell band
Publication TypeJournal Article
Year of Publication2016
AuthorsSuanda S.H, Perez S., Feddersen F
JournalCoastal Engineering
Date Published2016/08
Type of ArticleArticle
ISBN Number0378-3839
Accession NumberWOS:000378970100018
Keywordsabsorption; beach; boussinesq equations; Boussinesq wave models; currents; infragravity waves; long waves; models; Nearshore circulation; Numerical wave generation; radiation stresses; surface gravity-waves; water-waves

A source-function wavemaker for wave-resolving models is evaluated for its capability to reproduce random directionally spread wave fields in the sea-swell band (0.04-0.3 Hz) relevant for realistic nearshore applications. The wavemaker is tested with a range of input wave characteristics defined by the non-dimensional amplitude (a/h), wavenumber (kh), wavemaker width, mean wave angle and directional spread. The (a/h) and kh dependency of modeled results are collapsed with the Ursell number (Ur= (a/h)/(kh)(2)). For monochromatic waves, the wavemaker accurately reproduced the input wave height for Ur<1, with no dependence on non dimensional wavemaker width. For random uni-directional waves, the wavemaker simulated well a Pierson Moskowitz input spectrum. Frequency-integrated statistics are also reproduced with less than 2% difference between modeled to input significant wave height and <10% difference between modeled to input mean frequency for Ur<0.2. For random directionally spread waves, the wavemaker reproduced input frequency dependent and bulk mean wave angle and directional spread to within 4 degrees at Ur<0.12. Lastly, the wavemaker simulated well the spectra, mean wave angle, and directional spread of a bimodal wave field with opposing sea and swell. Based on the Ur<0.12 constraint, a range of dimensional wave height, period, and depth constraints are explored for realistic sea-swell band field application. The wavemaker's ability to generate waves that match the input statistical properties commonly derived from field measurements demonstrates that it can be used effectively in a range of nearshore science and engineering applications. (C) 2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Short TitleCoast. Eng.
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