|Title||The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling|
|Publication Type||Journal Article|
|Year of Publication||2019|
|Authors||Fiedler J.W, Smit P.B, Brodie K.L, McNinch J., Guza RT|
|Type of Article||Article|
|Keywords||beach; bispectra; bispectral analysis; Boundary conditions; energy-transfer; Engineering; generation; gravity-waves; infragravity waves; numerical modeling; oscillations; radiation; run-up; transport|
Numerical models predicting surfzone waves and shoreline runup in field situations are often initialized with shoreward propagating (sea-swell, and infragravity) waves at an offshore boundary in 10-30 m water depth. We develop an offshore boundary condition, based on Fourier analysis of observations with co-located current and pressure sensors, that accounts for reflection and includes nonlinear phase-coupling. The performance of additional boundary conditions derived with limited or no infragravity observations are explored with the wave resolving, nonlinear model SWASH 1D. In some cases errors in the reduced boundary conditions (applied in 11 m depth) propagate shoreward, whereas in other cases errors are localized near the offshore boundary. Boundary conditions that can be implemented without infragravity observations (e.g. bound waves) do not accurately simulate infragravity waves across the surfzone, and could corrupt predictions of morphologic change. However, the bulk properties of infragravity waves in the inner surfzone and runup are predicted to be largely independent of ig offshore boundary conditions, and dominated by ig generation and dissipation.
|Short Title||Coast. Eng.|