Coronavirus Information for the UC San Diego Community

Our leaders are working closely with federal and state officials to ensure your ongoing safety at the university. Stay up to date with the latest developments. Learn more.

The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling

TitleThe offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling
Publication TypeJournal Article
Year of Publication2019
AuthorsFiedler J.W, Smit P.B, Brodie K.L, McNinch J., Guza RT
JournalCoastal Engineering
Date Published2019/01
Type of ArticleArticle
ISBN Number0378-3839
Accession NumberWOS:000452817100002
Keywordsbeach; bispectra; bispectral analysis; Boundary conditions; energy-transfer; Engineering; generation; gravity-waves; infragravity waves; numerical modeling; oscillations; radiation; run-up; transport

Numerical models predicting surfzone waves and shoreline runup in field situations are often initialized with shoreward propagating (sea-swell, and infragravity) waves at an offshore boundary in 10-30 m water depth. We develop an offshore boundary condition, based on Fourier analysis of observations with co-located current and pressure sensors, that accounts for reflection and includes nonlinear phase-coupling. The performance of additional boundary conditions derived with limited or no infragravity observations are explored with the wave resolving, nonlinear model SWASH 1D. In some cases errors in the reduced boundary conditions (applied in 11 m depth) propagate shoreward, whereas in other cases errors are localized near the offshore boundary. Boundary conditions that can be implemented without infragravity observations (e.g. bound waves) do not accurately simulate infragravity waves across the surfzone, and could corrupt predictions of morphologic change. However, the bulk properties of infragravity waves in the inner surfzone and runup are predicted to be largely independent of ig offshore boundary conditions, and dominated by ig generation and dissipation.

Short TitleCoast. Eng.
Student Publication: