Surfing surface gravity waves

TitleSurfing surface gravity waves
Publication TypeJournal Article
Year of Publication2017
AuthorsPizzo N.E
JournalJournal of Fluid Mechanics
Volume823
Pagination316-328
Date Published2017/07
Type of ArticleArticle
ISBN Number0022-1120
Accession NumberWOS:000403553400012
Keywordsair/sea interactions; circulations; deep-water; dynamics; finite-amplitude; instabilities; kinematics; langmuir; oceanic boundary-layer; surface gravity waves; variability; water breaking waves; wave breaking; zone
Abstract

A simple criterion for water particles to surf an underlying surface gravity wave is presented. It is found that particles travelling near the phase speed of the wave, in a geometrically confined region on the forward face of the crest, increase in speed. The criterion is derived using the equation of John (Commun. Pure Appl. Maths, vol. 6, 1953, pp. 497-503) for the motion of a zero-stress free surface under the action of gravity. As an example, a breaking water wave is theoretically and numerically examined. Implications for upper-ocean processes, for both shallow-and deep-water waves, are discussed.

DOI10.1017/jfm.2017.314
Short TitleJ. Fluid Mech.
Student Publication: 
No
Research Topics: 
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