Janet Becker, University of Hawaii
"Wave-driven inundation of reef fringed atolls and islands
Wave-driven inundation of reef-fringed coastlines is of growing societal concern for low-lying atolls and islands. Observations from field studies of wave transformation across steep reefs of varying length, roughness and tidal range in the western tropical Pacific are presented and interpreted using analytical models. The importance of the low frequency variability to wave-driven inundation is emphasized."